Bantry, Crookhaven and Fastnet
Michael Murphy
August 16, 2023
Bantry, Crookhaven and the Fastnet Lighthouse
We are now in the far south west of Ireland and our first port of call is Bantry, at the head of Bantry Bay. As you sail deep into the bay, one can understand why it has been chosen by numerous foreign armies for both attempted and successful invasions. It is wide deep and sheltered, with a delightful harbour tucked in the corner. What is less obvious is why, in 1969 a large oil tank storage farm was built on nearby Whiddy Island for large crude tankers to unload.
Michael Murphy is the Harbour Master on the ground here. Like so many HMs he started his life as a deep sea fisherman. A tough life with 10 hrs on, 10 hrs off and out at sea for four months at a time. Fishing on the famous Porcupine Bank it would get very rough with 20m swell. But worse than that, he casually told us, is when the wind gets so strong that it flattens the swell, that is when you have to worry!
Even though there is a Euro 6M mussel business in the bay (exporting to France, Italy and Belgium), he explained that tourism is now by far the largest employer in the area and as if on cue a large cruise liner appeared on the skyline ready to anchor.
Like so many harbours chasing the cruise liner 'cash', a new landing quay has recently been built, a good pontoon installed, the harbour has been dredged to 4m and the spoil used to create a new recreation area. Michael told us that at one hectare, it is the largest reclaimed land area in Ireland which in his own words is "feckin' ridiculous". Some expensive development projects in Ireland do seem to raise eyebrows! As did the charge of 4 Euro to deposit one bag of rubbish into a clever disposal machine. On reflection, fair enough.
Heading south, around the famous Mizen Head was delightful Crookhaven. Here, in order to pay for your mooring buoy you have to visit the barman in O'Sullivan's pub. When we offered we got the delightful "Oh don't worry about that - just buy a drink!" THAT is why I love sailing in Ireland!
The final treat we enjoyed here was sailing right around the Fastnet Lighthouse in complete calm. It's size and brazen magnificence still sent a shiver down our back, especially as Storm Betty had just been forecast to hit us in 24 hour's time.
We are now in the far south west of Ireland and our first port of call is Bantry, at the head of Bantry Bay. As you sail deep into the bay, one can understand why it has been chosen by numerous foreign armies for both attempted and successful invasions. It is wide deep and sheltered, with a delightful harbour tucked in the corner. What is less obvious is why, in 1969 a large oil tank storage farm was built on nearby Whiddy Island for large crude tankers to unload.
Michael Murphy is the Harbour Master on the ground here. Like so many HMs he started his life as a deep sea fisherman. A tough life with 10 hrs on, 10 hrs off and out at sea for four months at a time. Fishing on the famous Porcupine Bank it would get very rough with 20m swell. But worse than that, he casually told us, is when the wind gets so strong that it flattens the swell, that is when you have to worry!
Even though there is a Euro 6M mussel business in the bay (exporting to France, Italy and Belgium), he explained that tourism is now by far the largest employer in the area and as if on cue a large cruise liner appeared on the skyline ready to anchor.
Like so many harbours chasing the cruise liner 'cash', a new landing quay has recently been built, a good pontoon installed, the harbour has been dredged to 4m and the spoil used to create a new recreation area. Michael told us that at one hectare, it is the largest reclaimed land area in Ireland which in his own words is "feckin' ridiculous". Some expensive development projects in Ireland do seem to raise eyebrows! As did the charge of 4 Euro to deposit one bag of rubbish into a clever disposal machine. On reflection, fair enough.
Heading south, around the famous Mizen Head was delightful Crookhaven. Here, in order to pay for your mooring buoy you have to visit the barman in O'Sullivan's pub. When we offered we got the delightful "Oh don't worry about that - just buy a drink!" THAT is why I love sailing in Ireland!
The final treat we enjoyed here was sailing right around the Fastnet Lighthouse in complete calm. It's size and brazen magnificence still sent a shiver down our back, especially as Storm Betty had just been forecast to hit us in 24 hour's time.